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Ireland – Pubs and Restaurants

“Cross Dublin and not stumble upon a tavern” – the task that the hero of Ulysses Leopold Bloom set himself is still impossible!
Ireland – Pubs and Restaurants

It is proved by Leonid Gelibterman who visited the first literary and gastronomic festival in Ireland and personally tested the Irish pubs and restaurants.

Irish pub

For all interested persons, I hasten to inform you that in Ireland one should not speak a pub, but a pub. Irish people are very sociable, but rarely visit. For these purposes there are pubs. It is no coincidence that people say: “In winter we go to the pub for the sake of heat, and in the summer – for the sake of the shadow.” If you want to have a snack in the pub, then ordering Pub grub, you can get meat pies, sandwiches and simple salads.

Irish cuisine can be tasted in Dublin’s largest restaurant, Custom House Quay, which covers an area of ​​13,000 square meters. m. And the Dublin The Palace Bar since 1843 is a favorite meeting place for Irish writers.

Restaurants in Cork County that I had the opportunity to inspect due to a trip to the festival are practically unknown in Russia, so I will be pleased to introduce some of them. Yes, and do not forget that, as the Irish folk wisdom says, “That which cannot be cured with oil and whiskey is incurable”!

Sisters berry

The city of Cork in southern Ireland is the capital of Rebel County or the “Republic of Cork”. This is the second largest city in the country, and in many matters (in any case, according to local residents) and the first. In the center of the city, in the Phoenix Street lane, directly opposite the entrance to a large club with powerful shaved bald security, there is a door to Jacques. Since 2007, the restaurant has been recommended by the Michelin Guide as a place worth visiting.

The first impression that captures you after you get a seat at a simple painted table in a room resembling a wagon in shape is disappointment. Candles from IKEA, unpretentious dishes, simple glasses, noise that doesn’t forget that you are not in the Irish pub, but in Ireland. All this lasts until the moment they serve food. And immediately it becomes clear what the sisters Eithne and Jacqueline Barry put 30 years of their lives on.

These middle-aged blondes with pink dyed locks of hair still help waiters to serve guests dressed for a democratic Cork very elegantly. Tender scallops, beets in various versions, crab cutlets, a variety of Irish meat, seven vegetarian tagines with sauces, the most delicious fried potato in my adult memory, the freshest Irish farm cheeses with pickled figs, meringue …

The wine list is small, but with its own flavors such as white wine from the Italian province of Marche, a good-quality Austrian Grüner Veltliner from Kamptal, or, say, a blend of Muscat and Flora from Australian Victoria.

If you have about 100 euros, and you really want to enjoy the food, not the surroundings (however, quite comfortable after the second glass), go visit the Barry sisters. And then take a stroll through the old streets of Cork, the birthplace of the world’s first yacht club.


One of the most gastronomically interesting places in Cork is located at the Isaacs Hotel. Crossing the bridge over the Lee River and climbing a little uphill, you will exit onto MacCurtain Street. House No. 48 – Isaacs Restaurant. It is marked by numerous guides, associations and associations. There are so many commemorative tablets that starting at the entrance, they even haunt you in the toilet. In fairness, it should be noted that everything is on the case. The waiters resemble well-trained hounds, and the quality of the food by the chef is close to impeccable.

In a large hall, with high ceilings, is located mainly the public from among local residents. The menu is small but varied. Fresh seafood, Irish salmon, fried meat, green salads. I really enjoyed the medium severity of the lamb curry. Isaacs Restaurant is one of the few catering establishments I know where they can work equally well with meat, fish and desserts.

A good wine list, consisting of well-known manufacturers, at prices quite acceptable for Russian fans to go to restaurants – from 23 to 35 euros per bottle. Dinner with wine will cost you about 100 euros. Before you drink, wish others around you, using your rich vocabulary of Gaelic words “Slainte!” – Good luck!

Fish day

As I mentioned earlier, Ireland is part of the land surrounded by water. And in this water only edible is found. And all this variety of the underwater world of Ireland is steamed, boiled and fried in the kitchen of Fishy Fishy restaurant. This two-story restaurant in the cozy town of Kinsale (Crowley`s Quay), half an hour from Cork, has a reputation for being the best fish restaurant in the country. A serious book of recipes of local cuisine, which can be obtained with an autograph of the chef, speaks of a serious approach to business.

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